Before I got here I thought I’d write about everything. Once I arrived I thought I might not blog at all. But I’m sitting in Breton pub in Morlaix and I have a spare hour or two so here goes…
I’m riding my bike in Europe. Where am I going to? I’m not sure. How long will it take? I don’t know. Right now I know I’m following the Eurovelo Vélodyssée route south to Nantes. After that maybe the the Canal Du Midi, and on into Italy. I have vague plans to head to Istanbul, or maybe Athens, or maybe I’ll turn around at some point and ride home by another route.
The Story So Far
The story so far is pretty simple, I got the ferry from Portsmouth to Saint Malo and starting riding. An flat ride along the bay with an early boulangerie stop for a pain au chocolate or two signalled it was going to be an easy day. In the end it turned out to be pretty tough. There was a lot more off road and a lot more climbing than I expected. An impromptu diversion to Cap Fréhel didn’t help either. By the time I reached Erquy I was pretty beat, and the final climb to the campsite and then the walk back down to the nearest restaurant wiped me out.
The first day taught me a couple of things, first, that the Velomaritime route is pretty rural so it’s not always easy to get food or water. Second it has some questionable off road paths that aren’t always easy to ride and aren’t always direct. I decided to take some diversions if it meant I could eat or avoided a tough off road section.
Luckily, the next two days were fairly short. Somehow I planned day 2, Erquy to Binic, to be 55km. I was planning for 80km days at a minimum so I’m not sure what happened there 🙂 For day 3, still feeling tired, I skipped the official route and headed to Perros-Guirec on the road. It was a fun ride through Cider orchards and I stopped in the pretty little town of Pontrieux for lunch (an excellent galette complet).
On day 4 it rained. It really rained. I was close to staying in my tent given the choice between being bored and cold in a tent or being warm but wet on the road I knew I had to ride. My destination was Plougasnou, 80km or so round the coast. I’m sure it would have been beautiful in good weather but most of the time I was working about if my shoes would dry out. I’d decided to avoid the off road tracks because I knew they would be wild, but somehow got drawn down one and got covered in water, mud, and sand. My clothes were a mess, my bike was a mess, my bags were a mess. In the afternoon the weather improved but a final sudden downpour saw me hiding in a toilet until it blew over. I thought this wasn’t going to be fun!
By the time I arrived at Plougasnou, camping at Primel Point, the sun was out. Warming up outside my tent I decided I was right to have ridden, but only just.
Yesterday was a relaxed ride round to Morlaix where I’m spending a couple of nights in a real bed. So far, despite some wild weather, it’s been pretty good.
The Next Chapter
Over the next four days I ride to Nantes, supposedly along a canal but it doesn’t look very flat. Perhaps I’ll write another post when I arrive, maybe I won’t. Either way I’ll keep on riding 🙂
Best Food: Atipik Bilig Great galettes and crepes in Morlaix.
Best Drinks: Cidre at Le Retro in Perros Guirec.
Best Views: Pointe de Primel – a headland between the Channel and the Bay of Morlaix.
Best Camping: Camping Municipal De La Mer, Primel. A basic campsite but an incredible location. Places like this are why I’m making the trip.
Stats & Data
Days ridden: 5
Kilometres ridden: 301
Metres climbed: 3283
Wet Days: 1
Rest Days: 1
Strava – Day 1 – Saint Malo to Erquy
Strava – Day 2 – Erquy to Binic
Strava – Day 3 – Binic to Perros-Guirec
Strava – Day 4 – Perros-Guirec to Plougasnou
Strava – Day 5 – Plougasnou to Morlaix